There is a new buzzword “strobing” ! Image retouchers identifies the same process as “carving & modelling” ! Photographers are familiar with the effect of popup strobe flash lights. The article (linked below) describes the MUA methods. Here I describe the methods for achieving good results in digital imaging workflow – specifically for Beauty images.
Nodoubt the first criteria for success in creating images of this quality is a beautiful model with perfect skin plus a good makeup artist (MUA). However to capture the look in-camera and to publish the look in digital form requires an holistic approach to avoid pitfals.
Avoid these pitfalls
All three of the production team (mua, photographer & retoucher) need to work in harmony bearing in mind the final process of retouching is responsible for the final image quality.
1) Light reveals all, either by the highlights it magnifies, or the shadows it causes. I always ask an MUA not to attempt to cover up skin blemishes, and not to add too much shine as both cause problems to the camera. Likewise over use of blusher and deep jawline shading will leave the retoucher with little option.
2) The camera is responsible for capturing both extremes of lighting effect of skin detail. Skin sheen mush never become overexposed (RGB <+ 250,250,250), and shadows must contain full detail too (RGB => 18,18,18). Studio lighting arrangements and exposure are absolutely key.